Musings on...Revenge Dressing
Peacocks, You Got to Let Them Strut
Stars-they're just like us. They come out swinging after a period of solitude. Perhaps the actor’s strike lockout of premieres and promoting renewed their joy of dressing up because they ran headlong and in full fashion onto the Golden Globes red carpet. I appreciate being a beneficiary to so many exceptional fashion moments.
Tomato Girls for Life
Red is my favorite color, but she's a fickle friend. It must be the correct shade and a poor cut will look cheap. When Miss Scarlet is shown her proper respect, she delivers. I adore red on the red carpet.
A redhead in red? Ravishing! Julianne Moore’s Bottega Venetta is a grown woman’s ballgown. The tomato orange/red color is saturated perfection. It is perfectly cut, equally voluminous and structured, and there are pockets!
Much has been posted about Selena Gomez’s figure to her lupus medication, but I love how Armani accentuated her curves. The bodice is beautiful and although I am not a fan of high/low hemlines, (wear a long dress or a short dress, not both). The color reminds me of the perfectly glossy candy apples I ate as a child and those shiny slingbacks made my mouth water even more.
One glance at Ayo Ederbiri, and I knew it was Prada. That straight strapless tea-length column is a house signature. It always works: concise and linear, paired with that Parisian bob flipped just so. Chef’s kiss-pun intended.
Danielle Brooks and Da’Vine Joy Randolph in lipstick red and merlot were stunning. I did have hope their designers would be inspired to give us a moment for the ages. This bombshell look is de rigeur for curvy girls. Cinch the waist, push up the girls and skim the hips. We get it-Jessica Rabbit. I wanted to see an interesting shape or perhaps over the top embellishments that a curvy woman can pull off with aplomb. Fuller women have more than this option. Christian Siriano exploded his business leveraging that white space. (Google Nicole Byer Christian Siriano and swoon). He allows everyone, with every body type, to come to the fashion party in full glory.
In my Met Gala post, I noted how Teyana Taylor went against type. She was having a career defining ingenue moment but chose sharp tailoring with Thom Browne instead of the full angelic ballgown trope. I live for that kind of style/event dichotomy. However, (speaking of Siriano) as an avid Project Runway stan, I have learned from enough real-life challenges to know it is best to let the client win even if the designer has a vision. If these ladies desired to lean into their Hollywood Glamour moment with a capital HG, I’m here for it. Brooks actually told Vogue she referenced images of Dorothy Dandridge and Joyce Bryant. They both looked beautiful, I’m just musing on what I thought I might see. Given their talent, there are many more red carpets experimentation.
Have We Met?
There is nothing new under the sun, even in fashion. Creativity always draws from a reference. Sometimes I see one thing on the red carpet and my mind recalls a tidbit from something I’ve read or seen before.
Natalie Portman in Dior is a vision. That beautiful pattern is actually beadwork. Like an impressionist painting, you must squint when you look at it. Truly a work of art, I was transfixed. Raf Simons’ transcendent first couture show for Dior in 2012 is burned in my brain. Therein is an earlier incarnation of that artisan handiwork. Oddly, not one smile from Natalie or the model: I thought beautiful water sprites were happy creatures.
Follow me closely here. Diana Ross is my first diva, I have loved her all of my life. Barbie was my favorite toy and I love all things Barbie Millicent Rogers. The moment I saw Margot Robbie in this pink Armani, the diva and the doll merged in my mind. Intoxicating color-check. Matching shoe-check. Fitted sequin halter dress-check. Lightweight tulle/chiffon stole-check, but of course Diana’s is bigger, and shall we say, more supreme? Word is the look was inspired by Superstar Barbie 1977 and I’m just asking who was a bigger superstar in 1977 than Ms. Ross? That’s called fashion history math, Friend.
I'm open about my love for Sergio Hudson. He is a kindred fashion spirit-I can feel his inspiration, perhaps we grew up watching the same movies. He recast Rachel Brosnahan in the iconic look from one of my favorite movies, removing the fluff, sharpening all the edges, and adding those shiny satin buttons. Well done, I almost peed my pants! IYKYK
Issa Rae is literally red carpet gold. That megawatt smile and beautiful skin are EVERYTHING! This Pamella Roland design is magic, but a sequin t-shirt dress will always lead me to Norman Norell. Considered the Dean of American fashion, he merged European dressmaker details with more liberated and active silhouettes for American life. Designers like Michael Kors and Pamela Rolland have him to thank for the blueprint of luxe Americana.
This should probably make an appearance in the LBD category, but whenever I see this silhouette, I see Avedon’s Dovina with the Elephants. Not a direct copy, but this svelte cocoon ensures elegance and flair. Just watch replays of Angela Bassett on the red carpet or every rendition of Morticia Addams. This style just makes one gesticulate beautifully.
A Little Something Something
It is unquestionably difficult for men to make a red carpet statement. They must be dignified enough to be referential, fashionable enough to seem engaged, but going too far ensures future fashion regrets. The small details make the difference and although it's a tight rope to walk, some men had the fashion chops to deliver.
Trevor Noah always keeps it classic but knows where and when to push the buttons. He brings back the Regis Philbin matching shirt and tie combo, echoing the sheen of his lapels. It’s difficult to see in photos, but the lapel hem is detailed with what looks like whipstitching, lending subtle texture to the smooth layers.
A bonafide peacock, Colman Domingo rules on the red carpet. His look is different enough to show thought and effort, but it’s not a new or odd cut and the stovepipe pants are interesting. I think it will age well in photos and not seem specific to any particular time period. He’s a handsome man that looks handsome. But, it’s the mewelry (man jewelry) outside of the requisite watch that makes it really special. Still thinking of you Eddie R.
Timothee Chalamat is a formidable presence on the red carpet. He is very fashion forward, but often skews more ethereal looking for my taste (perhaps its his doe eyes and cherubic curls), so I was shocked to love this look. Great foundation with a little extra zhuzh. The chelsea boots are giving cool Beatlemania. It took me 24 hours to realize I have a vintage jacket with a similar sequin pattern, so natch, great minds think alike.
A few men tried unorthodox color combinations, end of sentence. Giorgio Amani and Charles Melton excelled in color blocking. I once read it is very French to combine navy blue and black, so oui oui to you, Monsieur!!!
Jeffrey Wright can never be wrong in my eyes. I fell in love with him in Cadillac Records and can’t wait to see American Fiction. Jeffrey is telling us with this look that he is not just an actor, he’s a thespian. He is not on board with the foolishness. There is no flair to this look-barely a hint of a watch, no pocket square, non-descript shoes, not much a smile. He is the personification of straight, no chaser. This classic tux is so perfectly tailored that he looks like a 2 dimensional paper doll. Mr. Wright is alright!
If Jeffrey is Mr. Right, Lenny Kravitz is right but for all the wrong reasons. This is someone’s father, y’all. Does your father show up in a backless jumpsuit with pointy heels and no shirt? The fashion math isn’t mathing, but it adds up beautifully. Lenny is some form of fashion and style calculus that I can’t comprehend, but I know it’s important to my life. He is such an outlier that he makes you feel wrong for being normal. This is the alien superstar.
A Moira by Any Other Name
Cecil Beaton’s ascot scene from My Fair Lady is my earliest memory of the impact of black and white. On a recent flight, I saturated myself with Schitt’s Creek, because I love love love Moira Rose and her strict noir et blanc wardrobe. Catherine O’ Hara pulled Moira’s look from the fabulous Daphne Guinness, and I can’t see black and white without thinking of them. The absence of color does not make one void of style.
I am a teacher’s daughter and a sucker for a pussybow blouse. My mother’s collection is epic. Here, Meryl Streep looks like the head grande dame of the sexy librarians in Valentino. I predict Ariana Greenblatt is one to watch. This 16 year-old decided to zig in tuxedo pants when everyone else zagged in dresses. That kind of chutzpah is evidence of a great fashion personality, and collabing with house of cool Saint Laurent tracks. Pom Klementieff wins the “You Made Me Love It Award”. I hate hate hate the sheer trend. I also hate the no pants trend, and she is doing the most with both, even wearing sheer shoes and sheer stockings. But I love it- I was like “Girl, what?!?!?”
Fade to Black
I collect black dresses. I have a closet full of them, modern and vintage. Holly Golightly proved an LBD is the epitome of effortless chic. The artful use of accessories, hair and makeup keeps a classic fresh. My favorite looks prove when you want to look good, bet on black.
I like variety and surprise, but I can appreciate a uniform. Staying in a lane usually results in consistent style. Jennifer Aniston took more risks in the 90s, but I like that she's firm in her groove, favoring neutral colors on the red carpet, epitomizing healthy and wealthy Malibu chic. This has all the Jen hallmarks-it's black, it’s unfussy and fits her perfectly. As always, her hair gets the headline. The scallop detail below the waist is lovely. It is what we expect from her, and she always delivers. She promised she would always be there for us.
I. Can’t. Even. with Rosamund Pike in this look. Word is the headpiece was to hide injuries from a skiing accident, but I’m not buying it. When you have such an exquisite RBF, you SHOULD put a frame around it. She fully embraced Dior’s New Look but subbed a substantially weighted platform sandal for a ladylike pump, keeping it from looking dated and staid. This debutante will kick you in the chest and you will like it. She reminds me of Grace Kelly in her icy Hitchcock phase, if she pushed wheelchair-bound Jimmy Stewart out of the Rear Window.
Simple way to make a black dress something special-add a sparkly bow. Amanda Seyfried’s Armani Prive velvet column dress is proof that when good ingredients are treated with respect, the look is delicious.
Bedecked and Bedazzled
Stars are meant to shine, you can’t have a red carpet without a little glitz.
I love Julia Garner in Gucci because this was one full cup size away from something altogether different. As spokesperson for all members of the IBTC, we celebrate a sexy look that doesn’t require cleavage. Emma Stone in Louis Vuitton is a glamorous version of my grandmother’s kitchen cafe curtains, and that’s not an insult. You don’t see embroidery on a lightweight sheer fabric like that anymore. I appreciate Elizabeth Debicki in Dior Haute Couture for the reminder that a blonde in gold with simple styling amplifies the beauty of the woman and the dress. America Ferrera wears a classic Dolce and Gabbana cut, but in silver when brunettes are usually dressed in gold. Since more of a good thing is wonderful, let’s embellish it with a plethora of rich auntie’s brooches. It does make me ponder: are they on the back? Can she sit down if they are? If you’ve seen the video of Dua Lipa leaning on an incline instead of sitting in that Schiaparelli, it’s a valid question. Quinta Brunson is a style star with fashion sense is as sharp as her writing. She is a petite woman, and her team takes obvious care with her tailoring, making sure everything is proportionate. It’s that precision that allows this simple Balmain halter dress to look so amazing. I realize I'm repeating the term simple, but simple ain’t easy.
#Winning...in White
File this under unnecessary trivia, but white is statistically the winningest color in pageant history. An LBD is for effortless chic, an LWD is for when you want your effort acknowledged.
I have no Beef with this look (see what I did there?) on Ali Wong. Her Grecian dress is beautiful, and I love that she embellished her signature glasses instead of wearing contacts. I believe a woman is most beautiful when she feels like herself.
This Danielle Frankel slip and slide of a dress on Julia Schlaepfer is the oldest rule in the Hollywood playbook. A platinum blond in a bias cut silky ivory dress is still a star maker. If it worked for Jean Harlow, Marilyn Monroe, Madonna, Mae West and Jayne Mansfield, run the play again, Coach.
Lily Gladstone came to all the red carpets this season like a pro. She is the posterchild of not losing yourself, sharing her spotlight with indigenous designers and brands. She wisely saved white for the big night. Choosing the subtly draped Valentino is the play of a woman ready for her photo to become historic. #won
Full disclosure: I love decorative movement. Fringe, tassels, bracelets and bangles make my fashion heart sing. When my clothes swish and sway I hear the chorus to LL Cool J’s “Jingling Baby” in my head, so Keri Russell in Jil Sander is the symphonic personification of my dream dress. Go ‘head, baby.
Did you have a favorite?
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I’m usually team LBD but the white slip dress is beautiful and the red dresses are giving me life. That picture of Diana Ross takes me all way back to 80’s Diana and all her glamour.