Musings on...Coffee Table Couture
From the Archives: The Best Books Inspired by The Met Gala
I’ve always been bookish, and I had a habit of writing reports on books and topics I loved. I actually assigned myself the task of writing book reports for no grade or recognition. In my free time, for fun! As an adult, I turned my teenage habit into its modern iteration- a book blog. Let’s be honest: a book blog is just a book report with SEO. After some technical issues beyond my coding ability, my website imploded. I was dragging my feet deciding if I should have it redesigned, when I thought of this Substack. Since I’m always musing about books, I’ll just house it here alongside my other miscellany and revisit the archives from time to time. Substack is also free, so my decision may have been heavily influenced, but thanks for nothing GoDaddy Tech Support.
Originally published April 30, 2015 Any fashionista worth her Manolos can tell you the first Monday in May is dedicated to the Met Gala. The Met Gala ball that kicks off the "Metropolitan Museum of Art" Costume Institute annual exhibit is the hottest and most expensive fashion ticket in town. It's a veritable who's who in society, publishing and fashion. There are very few occasions when couture with a capital "C" is appropriate, but when spring flowers appear in Central Park, the Met Gala red carpet comes alive with fabulous fashion. Every year gives us a new theme, great fashion moments and stylish new fashion books to grace the shelves. For your pleasure and mine, I've compiled a list of my favorite books that chronicle, celebrate or were inspired by my favorite Met Gala themes. They should become couture for your coffee table!
2014 Charles James: Beyond Fashion
Charles James was one of the first true couturiers of American society. Highly sought by the likes of Standard Oil heir Millicent Rogers and Hollywood legend Marlene Dietrich, his designs became the archetype of the rich and powerful of mid-century America. Known for his defiant attitude, he died well celebrated, but financially destitute. Never willing to sacrifice form to the finances, he never reached the marketing success of his contemporaries. The Met Exhibit shows that although he made great fashion, his skills and troubled genius persona made him a giant beyond fashion.
The seminal photo from 1948 of debutantes dressed in James is a cultural and fashion touchstone. It has been recreated often, from advertising by Juicy Couture to a modern reimagining by Grace Coddington and Steven Meisel. Sarah Jessica Parker was the belle of the ball channeling every bit of charm and midcentury gentility in a dress by the only remaining designer of the old garde: Oscar de la Renta. From the Cecil Beatonesque black and white, the waspiest of waists, opera gloves and a perfectly highlighted Bergdorf Blonde bouffant, she made her ascent up the grand staircase very grand indeed.
Current notes: I’m going to say this, sit on this hill, guard it and fight anyone that feels differently. Before RiRi became the queen of Met Gala entrances, there was SJP. You can do a very thorough deep dive and see that Sarah Jessica Parker set the standard of how to merge designer, personal style and theme. You know I don’t use the term ‘icon’ lightly, but SJP has been in front of all the curves for DECADES. From her wearing that sleek Calvin Klein mini to present at the Oscars, to her consistent method dressing (balletcore to the New York Ballet), she walked, so badgirl Riri could run. I am not sure why there is not a coffee table book dedicated to her consistently trailblazing style (even pre-Pat Fields), but Rizzoli, Abrams, Assouline need to get it together and make it happen. Also, consider this my shamelessly unembarrassed plug for the assignment.
Charles James: Beyond Fashion
The Metropolitan Museum always releases the definitive tome about the exhibit. Written by Andrew Bolton and Harold Koda, each book is a true collectors item. If you love art exhibits and you love fashion, you must make it a point to purchase each year's catalog.
Charles James: Designer in Detail
A recent release (March 2015) focuses on the perfectionist nature of James as a designer. His couture gowns were perfectly constructed inside and out and known for their geometric precision. At the gala, many dresses were displayed over lights so you could see the underlying construction. James was his own pattern maker, and the patterns were perfection. If you like fashion as architecture, this is your book.
100 Dresses: The Costume Institute
A favorite book that I am constantly pulling from my own shelf is this compilation of historical dresses by the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art. The beautiful photos, spanning fashion from the late 17th Century to Dior 2006, is informative, and stunning in detail. Any student of fashion would welcome the rich glossary of terms as well as full action shots from runway and historical advertisings.
Current notes: A newer addition to the James collection, I also recommend Charles James: Portrait of an Unreasonable Man by Michelle Gerber Klein. Published in 2018, Exhibit Director Harold Koda offers a reflective perspective to his expertise in the foreword.
2013 Punk: Chaos to Couture
The look, created in the back alleys of London to be subversive, did eventually overthrow the fashion status quo. Once the cry of teenage anarchy, punk has become a viable style statement for every generation. 2013 was one of my favorite themes and produced some of my favorite fashion moments. Punk was translated literally, yet playfully, by Miley Cyrus in Marc Jacobs and perfectly homaged with the collaboration of Sarah Jessica Parker and Philip Treacy with that amazing mohawk headpiece.
Punk: Chaos to Couture (Metropolitan Museum of Art)
The annual exhibit catalogue is a visual delight. One of my fave is a chandelier made from thousands of razor blades suspended over a beautiful bed of roses. I always love an aesthetic contradiction. The plastic bag dresses by Gareth Pugh shows how punk evolved as the first DIY project of fashionable teens. Every exhibit shows the essence of punk-full of details, full of rebellion, but somehow what started as a revolution against elegance and luxury evolved into its own brand of luxurious tension.
Vivienne Westwood
Nothing regarding punk would be accurate without the inclusion of the Queen of Punk. Written with Ian Kelly by the grand dame herself, La Viv shares the inspiration, the stories and how the little movement that rocked London's counter culture became her international brand.
Tartan: Romancing the Plaid
Tartan began as the sign of Scottish clans, but most agree it has become THE print of the punk movement. From men's kilts to royal residences, tartan was co-opted by the designer triumvirate of punk-Vivienne Westwood, Alexander McQueen and Jean Paul Gaultier. Once humble, then haute, tartan is to punk what Lilly Pulitzer prints are to country club mavens.
2012 Schiaparelli and Prada: Impossible Conversations
The overwhelming success of the previous year exhibit dedicated to Alexander McQueen inspired Mr. Koda to focus on a show about a female designer. The idea of comparing and contrasting artistically inclined bourgeois Italian female designers, albeit from different generations, was inspired by a series of articles from Vanity Fair in the 1930s called "Impossible Interviews" between current day celebrities. The decor of 2012 is my fave. Raul Avila used over 200,000 South American roses throughout the party spaces. I love a pattern melange, so the mix of prints set in the Euro cafe bistro was in my mind, the most feminine, the most artistic and the most modern. It is the MOSTest!
Schiaparelli and Prada: Impossible Conversations (Metropolitan Museum, New York: Exhibition Catalogues)
The exhibit catalog, as always written by Andrew Bolton and Harold Koda, shows the parallel inspirations and similarities of women separated in time. Their artful whimsy, complementary color palettes and bold use of shapes leaves the fashion world a legacy of exceptional prints and exceptional feminine silhouettes.
Elsa Schiaparelli: A Biography
The definitive life story of Elsa was written by acclaimed biographer Meryle Secrest giving form to her extravagant personality and shows how "Schiap" was more popular in her day than the mighty Coco Chanel. An astute business woman, Elsa built her company to millions of francs annually, brilliantly combining the worlds of fashion and art forever.
Elsa Schiaparelli's Private Album
"Schiap" was a fashion legend and her legacy included the supermodel and actress Marisa Berenson. This book was actually written by Marisa and offers an intimate look into her life and home in the way only family knew her. Eccentric and witty, Elsa was a friend and collaborator with some of the greatest artists of her time, but she was also just someone's Nana. This book shows the dynamics of that cool contradiction.
Pradasphere
This oversized tome was authored by the Prada company as an archival history of the entire world of Prada. Clothes, bags, advertising and photography-everything that influences, surrounds and motivates Miucca Prada is included. If Prada is your world, this is your map.
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