Musings on...First Looks, Second Thoughts
The Met Gala Is My Complete Personality for the Month of May. My Musings Whether You Want Them or Not
It is no secret to those who know me that The Met Gala is one of my favorite events. It is a chic collision of all my favorite things: fashion, art, culture, museums, history and learning. When Superfine: Tailoring Black Style was announced, I was elated. The fun of the Met gala to me is nerding out, learning about the theme and watching it translate into fashion. However, I am fully acquainted with this year’s theme. I lived it. These are my people, this is what I see when I envision a man in my mind. It is every uncle, my father’s friends, my friends’ fathers, fellows around the way in the neighborhood, my husband’s contemporaries, guys I hung out with in college. Broad shoulders, firm jaws, long, thick arms, hair loose with curls, hair tightly coiled, hair that reached to the sky, hair slicked close with compact zig-zaggy waves. Edges and sideburns straighter than rulers. Beards, goatees and mustaches shaved and shellacked into submission. Baritone laughter emanating from the grill at cookouts. The mixed scent of an individual heady cologne, Johnson & Johnson baby lotion (sometimes Jergens) and leather (always leather) as I was hugged, congratulating me, telling me how my every accomplishment made them proud. I know how these men care about their personal presentation. I know how they peacocked when they looked good, felt fine and how we admired their elegant strength. I can see in my mind’s eye the turtlenecks, the thick overcoats, pants with starched creases, polished dress shoes with thin, silky dress socks, sneakers pristinely clean and white. To me, this was not just an exhibit, it was an unveiling to the world of the history and grandeur that I have observed my entire life. It feels like when you show your friend one of your favorite things, hoping they love it too. The response financially for the museum and the parade of praise I see on the internet makes me think the world just might agree.
I’ve spent the entire week rewatching the footage and looking at the pictures up close. I am an obsessive fashion nerd #sorrynotsorry. The quick look as they walk the carpet and give pithy sound bite interviews is my first reaction, but I prefer to look at the pictures and see the small details that aren’t visible on E! or live streams. I like the backstories and amplifications. When the dust settles, the looks I loved immediately never change, but the looks I may have dismissed at first can be swayed back into favor with a second review. Even if I don’t like it, I often appreciate it more.
Let me warn you right now: This post, as with all my posts about fashion, will be too long for your email. Read it in full in the app.
The Style Fax
When the theme was announced, my very first thought was ‘Andre Leon Talley better, do you hear me, better be mentioned, or I will turn over a table like Theresa Giudice’. Who I thought would hear me, I’m not sure, but I was serious. Andre Leon Talley was the penultimate modern dandy. I would read his Style Fax in my mother’s Vogue from the time I was 12 or 13 years old and there was something about his florid, over the top explanations of his life traveling the world that just touched my little soul. That bigger than life, and bigger than big man who hailed from my parents’ and my birthplace (North Carolina), swathed in silks, tailored suits, talking about playing tennis in Louis Vuitton and eating lemons and oranges under trees in Sicily made glamour seem real and touchable. His voice, to me, is the voice of decadence, history and appreciation of beauty. His writing gave me permission to love and authentically be moved by beautiful things. His memoir ALT: A Memoir was one of the first books I ever reviewed on my blog (trying to find the copy). He was one of my favorite parts of reading Vogue, so the thought of his fingerprints missing from this event would have been affront to the theme and his place in the fashion universe.
Colman Domingo’s homage to ALT in the vibrant blue Valentino cape is getting the press, but the suit underneath is the most Andre to me. The embellished windowpane pattern of the jacket reminds me of a black and white photo I must have seen in Vogue. My father, nor any man I knew growing up, ever wore a windowpane suit. I am sure my recollection is connected to my early days reading his Style Fax and absorbing his life documented on magazine pages.
In his first memoir, ALT speaks of his grandmother’s grand style, best displayed on Sundays for church. I too, remember my grandmother’s gloves, wigs and “pocketbook”. How beautiful and stately she was. The fan, is a well-known emblem of that tradition, which Tessa Thompson employed as her homage. Designer Zac Posen posted often on social media what Andre Leon’s Talley support meant to him. Actress Laura Harrier wore Gap on the red carpet, but another design by Zac for the after party, with the cover photo of ALT’s memoir as the fabric print of her dress. No famine of beauty here!
This Is What I Came For
I was actually in New York days before the Gala to see Othello. Of course, I had to make a quick stop at the Met because the exhibit Sargent in Paris (my favorite Belle Epogue era artist) had just opened. We lamented that we were days short of being about to see the exhibit (don’t worry, I am going back to see it and will post ad nauseam), but discussed our excitement for the red carpet. I was expecting impeccable razor-sharp tailoring. I was expecting women in menswear. I just knew that Janelle Monae was going to stun. I expected that Thom Browne would be the designer of choice. (This is absolutely his millieu) and Saint Laurent would give the best options for women in menswear suiting.
Zendaya and Law Roach have set a high bar, but thank goodness they continue to jump the hurdle every time. Everything about this look is perfect. The color (not too white, not too cream), the sheen of the fabric, the perfect angled tilt of the hat. There can not be a millimeter of selvage in those seams, it was tailored to her so wonderfully. Lord, I hope that girl ate before she arrived, because I can’t image she could fit a cracker in her mouth without us seeing where it landed in her belly. Zendaya has given us many great fashion moments, but this might be my favorite.
I knew this was Janelle Monae’s competition to lose and she did not give an inch for anyone else. She and Thom Browne are a winning team, but to add Oscar-winning Paul Tazewell into the mix? A truly masterful triumvirate. Did I need the tromp l’oeil overcoat? No, but her proficiency at performance art is fun, campy and costumy. She is true to it and the reveal was worth the wait. Janelle was Janelling hard!
Jodie Turner-Smith is an affirmed style star. She has parade of memorable looks, but this is what legends in training are made of. I had to be educated that she was referencing 19th century equestrian Selika Lazevski because all I saw was Bridgerton’s Lady Danbury. Either way, the Ton is talking.
Mindy Kaling has always been a red carpet favorite, but her latest run of looks have been stellar. I gasped when she hit the floor. She was the most beautiful artful portrait of a female Napoleon. Everything about the color, the lines and the embellishments were painterly and masterful.
Zoe Saldana unlocked a memory of watching Victor/Victoria when I was younger. The perfect mix of masculine structure combined with female energy. It was hard to see on monitors, but that skirt was fully beaded perfection. Molded to her frame, I liked it and the platform oxford wingtips gave me the right amount of costume to transition from like to love. It was classic and modern, masculine in reference, but purely feminine. Dare I say I loved it more than her Oscar dress.
This is What I Came For-The Men
Fashion is predominantly about womenswear, but the exhibit is obviously about men. The bros were committed to not being outdone and brought the smoke.
Charlie Chaplin meets Cab Calloway on Kevin Powers. I loved the silhouette of the high-waisted, full pant leg against the cropped jacket. I am charmed that in all his photos, he looks unsure of what to do with his hands, but he nailed what to wear. An unexpected choice, but so well-executed.
This took a minute to digest A$AP Rocky’s look. I loved the depth of color and drape of the fabric immediately-it read very high-end on the monitor. I liked it, but I didn’t know why, because it didn’t seem like what I’m usually attracted to. Then the reference took form in my mind: it reminded me of the guys I went to college with. A$AP Rocky looked like my male friends when we were in summer internship interview season. They would pull together parts from their closets that resembled a suit, but perhaps their proper dress coat or suit jacket was back at home. They were a mix of their current campus street style colliding with their attempt at a corporate persona. The juxtaposition of how you are currently living against the vision you need or want others to see in you. A$AP’s (or do I call him) Rocky’s look to me, was a luxe reincarnation of that feeling. It felt young, earnest, fresh and hopeful-just like college boys transitioning into professional men.
I never thought I was into Conquistador Chic, but here we are thanks to Lewis Hamilton. On a now infamous episode of ANTM, Andre Leon Talley was so moved by the beauty of a model’s photo he said it was worthy to hang in his salon. That is how I feel about this look. Hail, the conquering hero. I wish he and Mindy Kaling had one picture together.
How much did I appreciate Jeremy O. Harris, doling out Haute Hamilton, twinning with the regal portrait of Haitian Revolution leader Toussaint Louverture? Everything in his pose and in his facial expression shows he came to serve.
Once again, performance art and excessive reveals are not my thing, but when it ends and Damson Idris looks like that, I will reconsider all of my previous convictions. Literally, the coolest man in the room.
Brian Tyree Henry in that color against that azure blue carpet was a delicious visual delight, just the right amount of sheen on the fabric. His was an embarrassment of riches that could have gone wrong, but didn’t. The leather tie with the leather gloves, and the perfectly draped cape were nice, but the addition of the riding boots made things much more interesting. Sir, you are the picture of a modern Major General and I nearly pee’d my pants like Julia Roberts in Pretty Woman. If you understood the confluence of references I just put down, then you are my people.
Shut Yo’ Mouth
The zoot suit was ripe for exploitation. It originated in the Harlem dance halls and became an emblematic hallmark of Black style. Those pictures of black joy during the Harlem Renaissance and jazz culture are chock-a-block with men in every incarnation of the zoot suit.
I should have expected this from Teyana Taylor. I relished her ability to go against type at her Met debut in 2023. She zagged again, and made me gasp with this fabulous finery. Every touch point was elevated. The shoulders, the cane, the shoes and particularly the durag under that jaunty chapeau. The humble and utilitarian durag became the full show as it trailed into the most fabulous train. Only an Oscar-winning Costume Designer like Ruth E. Carter could have pulled that off with such aplomb.
Auntie Angela Bassett served so hard in this look, that I want to wrap myself in velvet from this day forward and I live in a tropical climate. A cape, a cane, pointed cap, and a camera purse: yes, yes, a thousand times yes!
What in the Prince Rogers Nelson am I looking at? I did not have Cardi B reincarnated as “The Purple One” on my fashion bingo card. Cardi, who usually takes up a lot of space with her massive gowns (2018, 2019, 2024), reigned it in, and still managed to suck the oxygen out of the room. I have never loved green that reminded me of Kermit the Frog more and I really think one of my friend’s aunts had drapes made of a similar pattern. For the curly-haired girls, she was proof that frizz is your friend. Part Scarlett O’Hara wearing the drapes, part Hefner’s robe, part Dave Chapelle cosplaying Prince, I like it like that. The sum of the parts were as delicious as the pancakes once Prince served Charlie Murphy. (Content contains spicy language).
It’s Fine…
The first sight of Hailey Bieber made me sigh, then it made me sad. I knew immediately it was Saint Laurent, which I was expecting to see, but huzzah, it was underwhelming. To wear Yves Saint Laurent le smoking like this did not read as effortless, it reeked of no effort at all. I put more consideration into my daily Starbucks run. I will say it again-not wearing pants is not provocative. This was not your Nan Kemper moment. YSL is a storied house with a lengthy backstory of embracing black style. Yves was the FIRST courtier to use black models on his runway. He put advertisements in black publications like Ebony Magazine although warned it would damage his business. He collaborated with Eunice Johnson, supporting Ebony Fashion Fair with his designs. Naomi Campbell credits him for her first Vogue cover. There is too much history of support for black creatives woven in the fabric of the house to have just put Hailey in a tuxedo jacket on with basic hosiery (I will offer points for the rhinestone YSL logo) and Only Fans heels. I can’t wait to read if
has an opinion on this one.
Okay, perhaps Yves is too old a reference. If the original designer wasn’t enough to cosplay harder, then at least dig into the archives of Heidi Slimane’s time helming YSL. He, of the suiting so sleek and sharply tailored that Karl Lagerfeld himself went full Kate Hudson in Bridal Wars to wear his suits. Suiting that was considered the first seismic shift in silhouettes for men since Giorgio Armani’s soft suiting. Is it too much to ask for one to recognize the abundance of theme-relevant history hanging from one’s shoulders? I thought Saint Laurent would blow us away referencing its own archive, but perhaps, I doth protest too much. I’m not mad, I’m just disappointed. She could have been a contender. Whatever, it’s fine.
Invited to the Cookout
An invitation to the cookout is a badge of honor. You will get fed and you will be treated like family. If you ride for us, we ride for you. A few looks deserve to be recognized and earned a take home plate of pound cake and cobbler.
There was much conversation of looks that were just ‘meh’ as some were afraid to step out and possibly cause offense to the theme. Joey King read the theme and said “Say less”. We see you Miu Miu! Joey swung for the fashion fences and hit a home run. This chick came to play. The prints, the color, the embellishments, the fit. Just looking at her made me happy. She perfectly embodied style, joy and a complete understanding of the assignment. You earned a big bear hug from Grandma.
There was a strong Gatsby-ish constituency, which made sense as it coincides with the many photos of Black culture during the early days of the Harlem Renaissance. My first glance of Gigi Hadid (also Miu Miu) played into that narrative and then she opened her mouth and I leaned in. This is a lesson in possessing style AND substance. You want people to look, but when you open your mouth, what you say has such weight that they look at you again in a different light. No charge for that side note. Anyway, Gigi and her stylist Gabriella Karefa-Johnson were inspired by Black designer Zelda Wynn Valdez and Josephine Baker. You know Zelda’s work if you’ve seen the original Playboy Bunny costume. What, girlfriend did homework and actually educated herself on the history of the theme? Whether she came to it herself or was smart enough to employ a stylist with fashion intelligence, I approve her message and I am here for it: Gigi served us a lewk AND made us learn. Girl, bring cups and ice and park your car under the trees.
Stylist Gabriella Karefa-Johnson is also on Substack! Check out her behind the scenes stories here
I warned you from the beginning that my play uncle, Jeff Goldblum, would show up at some point. This is the introduction into the family he earned. Jeff looked like a featured player from Harlem Nights walking into an underground nightclub, completely at ease with the theme, completely confident, ready to have a grand time. The real uncles are going to love you, man. You do play dominos/spades/bid whist, right?
Hall Pass
I don’t always understand it or love it, but I respect it.
Tracee Ellis Ross donned Marc Jacobs 2025 Spring Collection. I lovingly call it the Oompa Loompa collection. It is not my cup of tea, I feel I am not fantastical enough to understand it, but Tracee can never be wrong in my eyes. I appreciate that Tracee shows that she is and always has been a true fashion girlie. It makes sense that she and Sarah Paulson, another true fashion girlie, have worn the collection out in public like the proportions are normal. The true sense of personal fashion conviction is evident in the photos. She tailored herself in what brings her joy for the night and that always wins.
Tracee got the fashion drama from her mama. Diana Ross is my very first diva and can never be wrong. I couldn’t see the theme when she appeared, but who am I but just a normal person, while she is a legend. Diana has of course worn menswear to great effect, so I thought she might don a tuxedo, but obviously, we do not thing the same. An 18-foot train with all your family member’s embroidered on it is a superior flex. I believe in my heart that gown and cape were probably sitting in her fashion storage unit, along with that feathered flying saucer hat. But, when you arrive at a place and others are using you as the source code (I explained the use of the word icon and Zendaya here), we need to follow Zendaya’s example, get out of the way and bow down.
The other person I thought of regarding this theme was Dapper Dan. Google him if necessary, IYKYK, I can’t do all the heavy lifting here, but I was elated to see him on the red carpet. I didn’t love his look, but I appreciated the over-the-top DapperDan-ness of it all and I respect him for what he has brought to the conversation of black style, fashion and hip-hop culture. Dandyism is about wit and intelligence, per co-curator Monica L. Miller, and Dapper Dan mined his repertoire, loading his look with cultural and historical references. Legends have earned their status and just get to be. Hats off to you, Sir.
When Demi Moore showed up, I was slightly confused. My husband said it looked like she had a car spoiler around her neck. Then I saw the sketch and understood the reference to a men’s necktie. Generally, I feel if you have to explain it, it is too esoteric for the masses, but I appreciated it. I give points for the fun of it, the expert tailoring (of course Thom Browne) and the black and white beading was exquisite. Plus, Demi is Demi and looked amazing. I also appreciate that she went full couture costume for the Costume Institute. If it is in the name, it counts. Once I figured out the rule of the game we were playing, I said if Demi was a necktie, Jenna Ortega was a beautiful zipper.
Ahhh, the Meghan Markle of it all, As Ever…I could go on forever, but I will not, except: I thought Anna Sawai looked lovely. I loved her Dior in consort with Zendaya’s Louis Vuitton. Diana Ross and Bianca Jagger, two solid fashion references, both well-played. I wish she and Zendaya had taken a photo together, you know great minds, et al. Another all-white look not getting enough love was Jasmine Tookes. Designer Ozwald Boateng had a very successful run of looks on the carpet. I was very partial to Tems. She was a sophisticated gilded age doyenne, bringing The Gilded Age character played by Audra McDonald to mind. The actual Ms. McDonald was so comely, the most charming almond biscotti confection of a ensemble. I greatly appreciated Yara Shahidi’s homage to James Baldwin. I’m a sucker for a literate girlie. It was obscure, intelligent and necessary. She was also the only person wearing Fear of God that didn’t look like they had the fear of God on their face. (???) Shout out to the hosts on E!-I always love their commentary and their style collective Monday was top notch. Whoopi Goldberg, I loved this for her (Thom Browne again). It was perfection. She looked like an rich elder statesmen making sure business was handled perfectly for the culture. I loved EVERYTHING about Kerry Washington, EXCEPT the sheerness of that beautifully shaped skirt. I literally asked last year-when will we move past the sheer trend? Seeing underwear has not been interesting for a long time. Please make it stop. And I can not close without mentioning @mentionme, because some of the best looks don’t get to the red carpet and that is a shame. This carousel is the reason I deep dive through social media and I have been feasting on great fashion for days.
This was a stellar red carpet and there was much to unpack, I did not even get to discuss the couples, but (as ever) this page is just like my suitcase every trip-too much stuff, not enough room. So until next May…
More Red Carpet Reporting
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Musings on...The First Monday in May
I love the annual Met Gala. Regardless of the theme, I enjoy this intellectually challenging fashion show. It provides the most historical and dissected look at the power and fun of fashion. The Grammys are for often tragic outrageousness, the Emmys and Oscars are about star power and glamour, but the Met is about the art and history of fashion. I alway…
Musings on...Misuse and Misappropriation
My true love is the red carpet. Dresses, jewelry, shoes, makeup and hair. As I plan on watching The Golden Globes tonight, I am looking forward to the gowns, the tuxes and for acerbic host Nikki Glaser to read the room.
But I do have one tiny little request.
I cannot wait to read your review of the exhibit when you go, because this was fabulous. Thank you for sharing Laura’s after party dress because I missed that, and it’s amazing. So glad you gave Mindy some love, I also loved her look and was surprised it didn’t get more airtime! (P.S. What did you think of the Sargent exhibit?)